When Iberian pigs are still piglets, they stay in the pigsty until the cork and gall oak trees in the dehesa are heavy with acorns. They are then moved to the pasture, where they live free-range until they are slaughtered. Four factors make Iberian hams and shoulders a gastronomic wonder: the breed, indigenous to Spain, whose meat has a truly exceptional taste; the ecosystem of the dehesa, with its cork, holm and gall oak woods that cover the south-west of the Iberian peninsula, bearing the acorns that are the pigs' main feed for the months before they are slaughtered; the careful handling of the free-range reared pigs; and the slow, measured natural curing system that brings the very best out of these Iberian hams only after many months. When the pigs arrive at the slaughterhouses, they are left to rest. After being slaughtered, between December and March, the haunches are completely bleeded and dried, and the slow production process begins. The meat is kept in salt about 1 day per kilogramme, depending on the pig's weight, purity of breed and feed. After the salting stage, the hams are stored in temperature- and relative humidity-controlled chambers for thirty to sixty days, so that surface dampness is slowly removed and the salt properly spreads through the ham. They are then moved to natural drying rooms in the upper part of the buildings, where they undergo a so-called "sweating" stage, which involves the melting of fat in the muscle. The secret is to forget time. Working hastily or using a forced maturing process is simply no good. It is very important that the temperature of the hams and shoulders increase progressively, but slowly, gradually and controlled. This control of the temperature is done by closing or opening windows as appropriate and protecting the hams from any sharp changes in temperature.
As summer approaches, the hams "sweat" a great deal more, releasing a much greater amount of fat. Changes in temperature have a crucial effect at this time. After "sweating" fat during the day, the hams become cool during the night and fat concentrates. All the hidden aromas gradually start to be released. The scents of the layers of fat spread their delicate fragrance throughout the lean muscular mass. The thin 'caña', the colour of the trotter and a stylised silhouete are all genuine characteristics of the Iberian hams. The predominant features of the Iberian hams made in the Sierra de Huelva are as follows: they are long rather than broad; the skin on the outside is cut in a v-shape and is covered with a thick, shiny layer of fat, while the external flesh is peppered with mycotic flora, white or bluish-grey colour, an unmistakable sign of its characteristic and slow process of maturing in cellars. Slicing an Iberian ham is almost akin to a religious rite. Tasting it provides the kind of pleasure in which one wishes to savour every fine detail. The ritual of the correct tasting requires a previous correct slicing. Whether cut by hand, as tradition demands, or by machine, the key is to make thin, almost transparent slices that melt in your mouth, spreading their aroma and flavour. Despite the traditional charm of cutting the ham by hand or using a machine, a good Iberian ham is just succulent. An Iberian ham must not be eaten straight out of the cellar. It needs a few days to acquire the right consistency.
The oily, fragrant meat of Iberian ham simply melts in your mouth, leaving an exquisite aftertaste. When Iberian hams are cut, many fatty streaks can be seen marbled in the muscle. The colour varies from pink to purplish red, depending on the degree of curing and maturing. They are also remarkably shiny as a result of the low melting point of the fat provided by acorns from the holm, cork and gall oaks that are an essential ingredient in the fattening stage of Iberian pigs. There is a much higher degree of fat in these hams than in those made from other breeds. This fat produces rich fragrances, which are unique the world over. When the fat is well distributed between the muscles, it resembles the veins of the finest marble, and it is this factor that makes the meat an authentic delicacy. Iberian hams made from acorn-fed pigs contain a vast array of shades and subtleties, which makes this a truly unique and exceptional gastronomic product.
Curing in the Sierra de Huelva
The pigs must be slaughtered in the production area, i.e. in one of the 31 municipalities in the Sierra de Huelva. From then on, the hams may not leave the production area until the minimum maturing period is over. The slaughtering and subsequent quartering will be carried out in the slaughterhouses and quartering houses. The salting, washing and settling must be carried out in the appropriate facilities. The natural drying process is carried out in the drying rooms in the upper part of the buildings. Finally, the maturing process takes place in the cellars in the lower part of the buildings or below ground level. It is very important to note that the microclimate of the Sierra de Huelva helps dry and mature the hams. Both the drying rooms and the cellars are subject to natural conditions. The humidity and temperature may not be controlled by artificial means. Ham experts from companies registered in the Designation of Origin Jamón de Huelva produce their hams and shoulders by opening and closing windows.
The minimum production period stipulated by the Regulatory Board of the Designation of Origin Jamón de Huelva depends on the weight and quality of the ham: 18 to 22 months for hams and 11 to 12 months for shoulders.
The area in which hams and shoulders Jamón de HuelvaDOP are produced is a natural area in which ecological, technical and human factors combine to produce a unique product with qualities that have traditionally characterised the Sierra de Huelva.
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